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 What is the best AR wrench & vise block set for the money?
Steve069  [Member]
6/22/2012 1:41:19 AM
Anyone have a preference?

I bought a BCE 2.0 and I seriously cant get the shims to make it to 6 o'clock perfectly. I think its time for me to buy a vise set and a universal armorers wrench.
I have been looking at the PROMAG vise set which you can get for around $40 online but I am unsure on which universal wrench to get as well.
PRO MAG SET

Any opinions? The promag set has great reviews vs. the high cost of something from Brownell's

Steve0
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Drexel_Spivey  [Team Member]
6/22/2012 2:50:05 AM
Welcome to arfcom! I hope you have a thick skin

First of all, drop the shims & use a crush washer (the 'cup' always faces towards the muzzle). Get the PRI AR15/AR10 vise block (not the AR15-only vise block w/ a dovetail on one side). Since you won't be torquing barrel nuts over 30-60 ft lbs., you don't need any of those damn 'claw' vises. It'is nothing but an unnecessary PITA to have to loosen your bench vise & remove the upper receiver from the clamshell; check something; & repeat in reverse. If you have any questions, feel free to PM.

Ps. Don't drink the koolaid. It doesn't matter what brand your AR is; if it's factory built, or whether you put it together yourself or not. It doesn't matter if it is a direct-impingement or a piston driven system; if it's a DPMS, Bushmaster, BCM, S&W, LMT, Spikes, Noveske, etc.. Just learn it & run what you got!! Everything else falls into place.
kickstart59  [Member]
6/22/2012 7:27:54 AM
One plus to Brownell's is their customer service. Buy it once and if you break it they will replace it. They replaced my barrel wrench last year when I rounded off a flat on a VERY stubborn flash hider. Gotta love a company that wants you to be satisfied. Buy some other companys product and who knows if they will make things right when something goes wrong.
pianobomber  [Member]
6/22/2012 12:33:28 PM
The ProMag block set can be had at a more affordable price, including shipping, from Midway USA. By the way, I got a Tapco armorer's wrench for ~34 shipped to my door. If you can snag a deal like that, it is worthwhile.
Steve069  [Member]
6/22/2012 9:24:56 PM
Originally Posted By Drexel_Spivey:
Welcome to arfcom! I hope you have a thick skin

First of all, drop the shims & use a crush washer (the 'cup' always faces towards the muzzle). Get the PRI AR15/AR10 vise block (not the AR15-only vise block w/ a dovetail on one side). Since you won't be torquing barrel nuts over 30-60 ft lbs., you don't need any of those damn 'claw' vises. It'is nothing but an unnecessary PITA to have to loosen your bench vise & remove the upper receiver from the clamshell; check something; & repeat in reverse. If you have any questions, feel free to PM.

Ps. Don't drink the koolaid. It doesn't matter what brand your AR is; if it's factory built, or whether you put it together yourself or not. It doesn't matter if it is a direct-impingement or a piston driven system; if it's a DPMS, Bushmaster, BCM, S&W, LMT, Spikes, Noveske, etc.. Just learn it & run what you got!! Everything else falls into place.


Thanks...Guns already built though,



I just had an issue getting the compensator to shim exactly to 6oclock. Instructions say not to use a crush washer with the 2.0 because cans can smack into them when added. Figured if it was in a vise I could snug it a bit more to get it centered.
Gregory_K  [Team Member]
6/25/2012 8:10:52 AM
Do NOT use a action block for flash hider work. Use a set of barrel blocks (vise blocks) homemade out of wood or store purchased out of Al. Your just asking for trouble using a action block for flash hider work.
DR-B  [Member]
6/27/2012 5:48:52 PM
Originally Posted By Gregory_K:
Do NOT use a action block for flash hider work. Use a set of barrel blocks (vise blocks) homemade out of wood or store purchased out of Al. Your just asking for trouble using a action block for flash hider work.


Please explain further. Why not use the action block?
BauerC  [Member]
6/28/2012 12:56:44 AM
Be sure to cover your upper with a cloth or something before using the brownells. All my uppers have a square shape scratched in because of them.
Gregory_K  [Team Member]
6/28/2012 7:10:57 AM
Originally Posted By DR-B:
Originally Posted By Gregory_K:
Do NOT use a action block for flash hider work. Use a set of barrel blocks (vise blocks) homemade out of wood or store purchased out of Al. Your just asking for trouble using a action block for flash hider work.


Please explain further. Why not use the action block?


It is good practice to always clamp nearest the part you working on. Some have unscrewed stocks (holding rifle between the legs), barrel extension barrel nuts etc on stubborn FH. Why load parts with a loosening torque if you do not need to?
Covertness  [Team Member]
6/28/2012 7:32:09 AM
Originally Posted By DR-B:
Originally Posted By Gregory_K:
Do NOT use a action block for flash hider work. Use a set of barrel blocks (vise blocks) homemade out of wood or store purchased out of Al. Your just asking for trouble using a action block for flash hider work.


Please explain further. Why not use the action block?


Torq from your wrench is translated down the barrel to the index pin and upper receiver. It's rare but people have screwed up their receiver and/or index pin torquing on a flash hider.
btb601  [Member]
6/28/2012 3:20:58 PM
What do you do if you have something, say a AAC 9" upper with no barrel showing?
Gregory_K  [Team Member]
6/28/2012 4:03:51 PM
Originally Posted By btb601:
What do you do if you have something, say a AAC 9" upper with no barrel showing?


remove ff if possible.
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